Awfully Appeasing: Pothigai Hills

Prologue

"If this is not paradise, what else is?" i heard someone saying but didn’t bothered to even look back to see who was that. "May be" i said. Surely i was short of words as my mind was busy processing so much of nature at that instance. The cacophonic noise of motor boat was cutting the dam water. The boat took a turn round the corner to take us between two mountains among many mountains that were surrounding the dam water .as we were nearing; the gushing sound of water falling from height became more and more audible. Slowly and gradually as the curtains for a play unfold our sight were opened to view the exquisiteness of Mother Nature. The milky water with garrulous sound falling from the heights was one of the most exotic views i can ever imagine. This may come as exaggeration to many but take my words and you won’t be disappointed. There isn’t iota of sign that nature is holding so much precious view in isolation from the whole world. Surely a ride to remember and cherish for the lifetime.

The Set up

Pothigai hills - heaven of waterfalls. This is where we headed on Nov 28th, 2008 for a natures day out. The occasion was our dear friend Chandru’s wedding in Rajapalayam on nov 30th and we planned to have a great time out around the nature’s hotspots on the day before.

Green signal

A gang of 11 friends boarded the Pothigai express from Chennai egmore on Friday evening. It was an eventful week for us with cyclone ‘Nisha’ showering copious rain over Chennai. This weekend trip came as an escape from the rain and the water logged city. The train was on schedule and we started our trip as usual with great amount of chatting and laughter going on full guns

The train started slowly just to unfold one more surprise that it dosenot have pantry arrangement for food. Some of us had empty stomachs and ears filled with rumors about possible chances of acquiring edibles at upcoming stations.Finally when the train halted villupuram station at 11:30 pm; we rushed to get the first hands on whatever fit for human consumption. It goes in the manner that better to chew what u get rather than eschew. With filled stomach we parted each other to take a nap to recharge ourselves for an exciting day ahead. We reached Tenkasi the next day around 8.30 am and boarded the bus arranged by chandru and headed to Kutrallam where our rooms have been booked.

Here we are

Kutrallam, called the “Spa of the south” is a tourist spot as well as a health resort. It’s situated at an elevation of about 170 m high, on the Western Ghats in Thirunelveli district. There are close to 9 waterfalls (Main Falls, Five Falls, the Shenbhaga Falls, the Tiger Falls, old Courtallam Falls, Honey Falls, Orchard falls and Sitraruvi) around Kutrallam. All these waterfalls have medicinal properties since the water runs through forests of herbs and the water has therapeutic qualities to cure physical ailments.

On reaching the hotel we refreshed ourselves and headed straight to the first falls in our agenda – the old Courtallam falls. This falls situated some 6 km from the main town isn’t really a crowd puller not that it lacks beauty but because of its distance. Still during the season time one can find a huge crowd over there. The falls didn’t had a heavy flow but adequate enough to thrill us. The water here flows down in the form of steps in about five landings before reaching the bottom.

Massage to Shower
Given the therapeutic value of the waterfalls just by taking a shower in the falls would bear a great revitalizing impact on our bodies but in case if we opt for an oil massage before the shower it would double the pleasure of the shower. So did we… slowly one after another took the massage and felt instantly rejuvenated. There were different forms in the massage starting from a usual oil massage to ayurvedic massage. After the massage we all had a great shower in the falls. The water was cold and the force with which it was falling seemed like a natural water massage. The water was pinching and thumping on our shoulders that we were forced to take frequent breaks in between showers.
Finally when we came out of the falls for a brief sunbath it was feeling fresh to a greater range. Then we had some snacks and tea before getting into the bus.

Fruit feast at five falls
Then we headed to the five falls located some 5 km from the main town. We reached the falls around noon and we were welcomed with a variety of sour fruits ranging from green and red amla to mango to palm drink (called as pathaneer locally) to still more varieties of fruits we only know in our local dialect. After having these fruits in alarmingly large quantities we went to the falls. The water falls got its name because of its formation in such a manner that water flows as five streams forming five different channels. The fall was having a very little water flow and it was pretty crowded also that we gladly opted to stay out and click some pictures under a cloudy sky. We left the place as the sky opened up for a slight drizzle.

Centre of Kutrallam
Next place we headed was the main falls which is located in the town very near to the bus station. The water flow here too was less on comparison to the peak season and again we didn’t bothered to take bath in the falls as we were very much satisfied with the shower that we had at the old courtallam falls. The water falls from the top summit into a pool like arrangement from where it brims and makes another fall down to the bottom. The place was bit crowded unlike the other falls we visited before on the day. And the hygiene at the place too was seriously doubtful considering the amenities over there. There is a temple for Thirukutralanathar(Lord Siva) just opposite to the falls. We roamed around the market place, had hot banana chips and started back to the hotel for lunch.

Surprise pack
After a nice south Indian meal we decided to visit the Papanasam. Some of us initially planned to take rest after the massage and had sent the driver back but later were feeling bad to waste a half day just like that inside the hotel. So we then opted for a ride in autirickshaw which was a kind of experience that we loved to the most just because of the thrill of the ride complemented by a nice cloudy weather with slight drizzle.

The entire ride was greatly adventurous with some of us sitting at the backseat of the vehicle enjoying the sight in full-scale with muddy waters splashing on to our legs from time to time, rain drizzling out occasionally and waving at the school kids eagerly waiting at the bus stops . We spotted some peacocks and multicolored parrots along the fields and on small hillocks through the way.

Place to rid off sins
The Papanasam hill is located around 40 km from kutralam and a ghat road stretching for 20 km leading to Papanasam siva temple and falls.We passed through the agasthiyar falls and temple half way enroute to Papanasam. Due to time constraints we skipped the spot and decided to go to further. On the way we crossed the Mundanthurai Wildlife Sanctuary which is primarily a Project Tiger Reserve. But we could spot some dears, peacocks and macaques. We heard from the driver that there has been a secure fencing made in the forest near the human habitat in order to prevent poaching of tigers. We actually had got a plan to stay at the forest rest house at mundanthurai but couldn’t get any proper response while trying to communicate the forest officials through phone and e-mail. We actually couldn’t visit Papanasam temple and falls too due to time constraints and decided to visit the Karaiyar dam.

Dam (n good) site
When we reached the dam it was almost time for the boat man to leave and we stopped him for one more ride. Luckily we got to make the ride in the dam water. The dam which was actually built by the british across the river Thamiraparani just next to its originating point in the hills. Since it was close to the end of the rainy season the dam was brimming with water level reaching close to 134 ft just 6 ft below its maximum level.

The silence at the dam was so much captivating us and we almost went speechless with the amount of natural beauty laid before us in the form of the cloud clad hills, serene water, charming skies and the green forest around on the hills. Simply put it was looking close to heaven.
Thrill ride
The boat ride proposed by the government there is from the dam site till the end of the dam where we can alight in the dock to have a stroll in the forest nearby with a temple and take a shower at the panatheertham falls at the spot. This motor boat ride which takes us through roughly 6 km roundtrip costs around 20 rs per person. On special request we could go around the whole reservoir where there are close to five waterfalls that we can watch and get enchanted with the serene surroundings.
The only artificial sound that was disturbing the surrounding was the deafening noise of the motor boat but we were too much preoccupied at what we were sighting. The ride would have been even more pleasurable in case it was a less noisy ride. But this nuisance is negligible considering the beauty of surrounding hills and the reservoir. We also spotted some peacocks, kingfisher and many other varieties of birds along the coast through the ride.

Heavenly fall
And gradually as we moved closer to the end of the dam we were thrilled with the splashing sound of the waterfalls and were able to spot some drizzles over the reservoir at a distance. As the boat moved closer and as it came around a corner of a hill slowly the sight of the Paanatheertham falls unfolded before us and drove us crazy at that very moment. One cannot imagine a better beautiful sight of a falls with such a charming surrounding. At this moment the boat man slowed the boat and just the sound of the splashing water in a quite environment. It’s a treat for a lifetime.
We came to know that this is one of the originating points for the river Thamiraparani and on descending the other side of the mountain for about 50 km one can reach Trivandrum. This place beats Kutrallam hands down in its beauty and charm. We actually felt unlucky to be there very late as if we would have reached the falls sometime early during the day we could have had a thrilling shower at the falls and would have spent a lot more time in the surrounding places. The boat circled several times near the falls and we consoled ourselves with a shower in the drizzle created by the water splash. But truly we were very lucky to have come till there and this visual treat would go down as one of the best places in our memories. If the reservoir and the surrounding hills could well called to be close to heaven, the Paanatheertham can well be called a place in heaven.
Fitting farewell
When we alighted from the boat back at the dam site, the scene was looked more beautiful with sun setting at the backdrop of the mountains. The silence and the darkness falling at the dusk were mesmerizing. We then had warm tea and some tasty fries of a variety of fish called 'begas' caught at the reservoir.
We bid a farewell to the Karaiyar dam with enchanted memories of the falls and the mountains. The downward journey from the hills at that time of twilight with sun setting over the hills and the crescent moon smiling at the horizon just added to the list of charms that we witnessed the whole day.

Ever green
The route throughout our trip from the morning was through green agricultural fields, forests and with the hills side by having misty grey clouds over the summit. Rain was playing hide and seek through our journey and casting a magic spell to the landscape.
We returned back to Kutrallam by 7.30 pm. After having a nice dinner we strolled around the town back to the main falls through the still busy market streets. By the time when we returned to the hotel we were filled heavy yet with pleasant memories of the day. We could not ask for more adventures and natural treats in a single day.

Trek Info:
Thirunelveli - is the nearest city for all the places of interest. It is well connected by road and rail from Chennai and other parts of the country.

Kutrallam (59 km): Called the "Spa of the south" is a tourist spot as well as a health resort. It's situated at an elevation of about 170 m high, on the Western Ghats in Thirunelveli district. There are close to 9 waterfalls (Main Falls, Five Falls, the Shenbhaga Falls, the Tiger Falls, old Courtallam Falls, Honey Falls, Orchard falls and Sitraruvi) around Kutrallam. All these waterfalls have medicinal properties since the water runs through forests of herbs and the water has therapeutic qualities to cure physical ailments. Peak season is between June to September and usually flocked by thousands of tourists.

Papanasam (60 km): The famous Shiva temple is located at the bottom of Western Ghats and also very near to the origin of the River Tambraparani. Every year The Chitrai Vishu festival is celebrated in the month of April and another festival Adi Ammavasai is celebrated in the month of July and lakhs of people congregate there.

Panartheertham: 4 km from Papanasam Shiva Temple. The River Tambraparani commences its course from this point. One can reach this spot, crossing the Kaaraiyar dam by boat when the dam is full. During the festival days domestic tourists around Papanasam visit this place.

The Servalar dam nearby to papanasam also serves a good place to visit.
Agasthiyar Temple and falls: Located half way to the Panatheertham. One can reach these Agasthiyar Falls and the Temple by trekking a distance of 3 km. Regular buses available to visit these temples.

Kalyanatheertham This is a holy pool located at an elevation of 125 feet on the Agasthiyar falls and it gets its water flow from this pool only. This is called kalyanatheertham. Near the pool, there is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Mundanthurai Wildlife Sanctuary (42 kms): The sanctuary is en route to papanasam. Though this sanctuary is primarily a Project Tiger Reserve, other animals likely to sight are the leopard, sambhar, sloth bear and the chital apart from a wide variety of Indian primates including the bonnet macaque, common langur, Nilgiri langur and lion-tailed macaque. The best time to visit Mundanthurai is between October and January. Accommodation is available at the rest house on prior booking.

Kalakadu Wildlife Sanctuary (47 kms): This falls nearby to Mundanthurai sanctuary. This sanctuary is very popular with botanists and ornithologists as it has a great variety of fauna and bird life. Among the animals that roam here are tiger, panther, jackal and wild dogs while reptile population includes cobra, python and several other snakes. The lion-tailed monkey can be spotted at the Kalakadu Sanctuary. The best season to visit this sanctuary is between March and September. It is a reserve for the Lion tailed macaque.

Tenkasi (53 kms): Tenkasi literally means the Varanasi of the South. There is a beautiful Shiva temple here, which has a flagstaff that is 400 years old